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2026-08-03 · 7 min read

How to mount a Multiboard wall: drywall, studs, and brick

Render of a printed Multibuild shelf angled to show the octagon snap plates on its back, the shape that locks into Multiboard wall holes

A Multiboard wall goes up in five steps. Plan the wall size. Get the tiles. Connect the tiles with snaps. Screw the board to the wall. Click on your hooks, bins, and shelves. A starter wall over a desk or bench is a weekend job, and most of that is just having the parts ready.

Multiboard, also called Multibuild, was created by Jonathan Kobylanski at Keep Making. It looks like pegboard but does far more. This guide covers the setup steps beginners actually follow, pulled from the official learning videos and real installs.

What is Multiboard?

Multiboard is a wall storage system made of printed tiles full of holes. Three things make it different from pegboard:

  • Every hole is threaded. You can screw printed bolts and mounts right into the board.
  • It holds serious weight. Whole panels are rated around 165 pounds in community testing. Power tools are fine on the wall.
  • It is modular. The board comes off the wall without unscrewing anything, and bins and drawers click on.

The full part-by-part tour lives in Multiboard parts explained.

Step 1: plan your wall

Decide the space you want to cover. Measure the width and height. Common starter sizes:

  • Over a desk: about 60 by 60 cm (2 by 2 feet)
  • Over a workbench: about 120 by 60 cm (4 by 2 feet)
  • A garage tool wall: 160 by 60 cm and up

Keep Making has a free online planner. You enter the wall size and it lists every tile, snap, and screw you need with counts. Beginners who skip planning end up reprinting corner pieces, so plan first.

Step 2: choose offset or flush mounting

This is the one choice you must make up front.

FactorOffset mountFlush mount
How it sitsBoard floats a bit off the wallBoard sits tight on the wall
Cables behind the boardYesNo
Standard pegboard hooksYesNo
Hook snaps (heavy duty)YesNo
SimplicityA few more partsSimplest

Most people should pick offset. The gap behind the board is what lets you run charger cables and use the strongest hooks. Pick flush only if you want the thinnest, simplest wall.

Step 3: assemble the tiles

Tiles connect with a two-part snap system.

  • Lay your tiles out on the floor, edges touching.
  • Place the Part A snaps. Quad snaps go where four tile corners meet. Dual snaps go along the edges. Single snaps go in the outer corners.
  • Click the tiles down onto the Part A snaps.
  • Press the Part B caps on top. Each Part B has a tiny square mark, and so does each tile hole. Line the squares up. The caps hold threads inside, so the direction matters.

Building the whole board flat on a table or floor first is easier than working piece by piece on the wall.

Step 4: screw it to the wall

Screw through the snap holes into the wall. The working rule from the official guides: one screw per snap, two screws in the top row snaps, and a screw in each crossing hole of a quad snap. Get the first section level, then work outward.

Match the anchor to the wall:

Wall typeUse
Studs or solid woodStandard wood screws, straight in
Drywall between studsDrywall anchors rated for the load
Brick, block, or concreteMasonry anchors: drill, plug, then screw

Here is the part people love: the board can come off later without touching a single screw. A small removal tool pops the front caps, and the whole panel lifts off. The mounts stay on the wall.

Step 5: load it up

Now the fun part. Things attach to the board three ways:

  • Snaps click into the big holes. Normal snaps for light things. Weight-bearing snaps have an arrow that points up and carry real load. Hook snaps carry the heaviest gear.
  • Threads take printed bolts in any hole. A threaded mount is stronger than a snap. Heavy tools like drills and batteries should use threads.
  • Pegboard hooks click into the small holes on offset boards.

Start with hooks for hand tools, a shelf or two, and a few bins. We print compatible hooks, bins, and shelves to order, so the loading-up part never waits on your printer. The best walls grow over months.

What does it cost in time if you print it yourself?

Real numbers from creators who documented full builds: one maker logged 95 hours of printing and about 4 pounds of filament for a single pegboard-size board, before counting failed prints. Each large tile takes roughly 3 to 4 hours. A full garage wall runs into weeks of machine time. That is the main reason to buy the accessory parts printed instead of printing everything yourself.

FAQ

How much weight can Multiboard hold?
Community testing puts panels around 165 pounds, and printed T-bolts have held about 175 pounds in maker tests. Always test your own setup before trusting it with something heavy or breakable.

What screws do I need?
Standard wood screws for studs and wood. Drywall anchors for drywall. Masonry anchors for brick. The planner tells you how many.

Can I take the wall down without damage?
Yes. The removal tool pops the caps and the panels lift off. The screw mounts stay put, so the board goes back up in minutes.

PLA or PETG for the tiles?
Both appear in real builds. PETG shrugs off garage heat and sun better. PLA is stiffer and cheaper. Accessories that flex, like snaps, follow the official printing guidelines closely.

Is Multiboard free?
About 95 percent of the parts are free to download and print for yourself. Some perks need a Keep Making membership, and the license controls who may sell printed tiles. That is Jonathan Kobylanski's call to make, and we respect it.

Multiboard or pegboard?
Pegboard is cheaper and fine for light hand tools. Multiboard holds more weight, adds bins and drawers, routes cables behind, and comes in any size. See the full wall face-off.

Watch more

Jonathan Kobylanski and the Keep Making team publish the official learning packs. Start there.

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